The Hemingway’s Shower: A Walk to the Heart of Murchison Falls
Some experiences in Murchison Falls National Park stay with you long after you leave, and the hike from Hemingways Tented Camp to Uhuru and Murchison Falls is one of them. This is something I like to add to my to-do list every time I visit!
The walk itself is only about 3.5 kilometres in total, taking roughly two hours, but it feels like stepping into something far bigger than distance or time. From the moment you leave camp, the landscape pulls you in—raw, untouched, and wonderfully wild. The trail winds through scenery that feels unchanged for centuries, where every tree, rock, and bend in the path reminds you just how pure this corner of Uganda still is. Growing up in Uganda allowed me to explore this beautiful part of the park when I was little, and walking these trails now helping run the family company, is a feeling I can’t put into words.
It’s not an easy walk. Some sections are steep, the terrain can be uneven, and the heat adds to the challenge. But that is part of what makes it so rewarding. With every step, anticipation builds. You hear the falls before you fully see it, the distant roar growing louder as you climb, until suddenly you turn a corner—and there they are.
The falls spread out below you in all their power.
It is one of those rare moments where words truly fall short. The sheer force of the Nile squeezing through the narrow rock gap and exploding into mist is almost impossible to describe. The ground seems to hum beneath your feet. The spray rises into the air, cool and wild, and before long you are completely drenched in what we lovingly call “The Hemingway’s Shower.”
There is nothing quite like it.
Standing there, soaked by the mist and surrounded by the thunder of the falls, the feeling is indescribable. It is humbling, exhilarating, and deeply moving all at once. You don’t just see Murchison Falls—you feel it in your skin, your chest, and your memory.
What makes the experience even more special is the sense of history that lingers in this landscape. As I walk through the untouched beauty of the park, it’s impossible not to imagine the story of Ernest Hemingway and his wife, whose plane crash in this very region became part of safari legend. The same wild beauty that surrounds you today is the same dramatic scenery they would have witnessed decades ago—untamed, powerful, and unforgettable.
By the time you make your way back to camp, tired from the climb and still carrying the coolness of the mist on your clothes, there’s a quiet sense that you’ve experienced something truly rare.
The hike may be a challenge, but the reward is one of the most unforgettable moments Murchison Falls has to offer.
Written By: Robin Sparks, Director Murchison River Camps






